I use a 2009 Gammill Optimum Statler Sticher Quilting Machine for quilting your quilt top. This longarm machine has 3 motors, 2 computers, and a 24 inch deep throat of sewing space. I will load the backing material first, lay the batting on top of that and put the quilt top on last. Your quilt top should not be attached to any batting when you bring it to me. I prefer to furnish the batting, and I can furnish backing (lining) material if you need me to. I have a wide variety of digital patterns from which to choose to quilt your top.
Quilting is charged per square inch, and includes the cost of the thread. Extra options include: batting, backing, and binding (putting on the finished edge to a quilt). For an estimate, I must see your quilt and measure it. For a "guess'timate" read on, measure and multiply for yourself.
$ .01 per square inch for basting only. For those who still hand quilt, which I admire of course, basting is done on a 4-6 inch grid, using 1 stitch per inch. I charge a minimum of $35 for basting a top.
$ .025 for an all-over (edge-to-edge) pattern when it is appropriate for the top. I charge a minimum of $60 for quilting any top.
$ .03 - .08 per square inch for custom quilting, which is necessary for many quilt tops, because they have complicated patterns, or at the customer's request.
If you have spent serious time and money on a quilt top, you want the quilting that will complement the value you have already placed in the making of the top. It is best to accentuate the positive aspects of a quilt top rather than to lessen the quilt's value by using a quilting technique that is not on par with the quality of the quilt top design. To know which is best — custom or edge-to-edge quilting — let's talk, after I have had an opportunity to see your quilt top.
Batting costs an additional $ .00634 if I furnish it.
Backing costs an additional $ .00568 per square inch, or estimated when you bring your quilt top to your appointment.
Binding is another optional service. I usually do machine binding if you ask me to bind your quilt. I charge $ .17 per linear inch around the edge.
Quilt Sizes Vary, so these are approximate:
Wall Quilt 35" x 45"
Crib Quilt 40" x 50"
Throw Quilt 50" x 60"
Twin Quilt "70 x 90"
Double (Full) 90" x 90"
Queen Quilt 90" x 104"
King Quilt 100" x 100"
Super-sized 115" x 115" (extra costs involved)
To figure a guess'timate:
Measure the width and the length of your finished quilt top. Multiply the length times the width to get the square inches. A Twin quilt measuring 70" x 92" would = 6440 square inches. Using the average of .03 times 6440, the quilting cost would be (on average) $193.
If I furnish it, batting costs $13 (for 45 x 45 inch quilt) up to $63 for a king quilt batting.
If I furnish the backing for your quilt top, I charge roughly what you would pay per yard for it, sometimes less. For example, a quilt that requires 6 yards of fabric to back it, I might only charge $7 per yard ($42 plus tax) for a quality cotton solid or print back that complements your top. I often buy extra back materials on sale, and pass that saving on to you.
If you ask me to bind your quilt (put the finished edge on your quilt) I will usually machine bind it. I charge $.17 per linear inch for this service. So a quilt that is 70” wide and 90” long will cost 70+70+90+90=320 x $.17 = $54.40 to bind. This includes the fabric I might furnish to bind your quilt. Or you can furnish the fabric for the binding.
The cost of creating an heirloom quilt can seem confusing, because there are different hurdles to jump. People who also sew often bind their own quilts. Men or women who design may buy fabrics they like, but have no way to sew it into a quilt. Memory quilts are made from your loved ones clothing, which has to be cut apart and resewn together to create a memory quilt.
I will help you only in those ways you need help.
Remember consultation is free. Call and we will chat.
***Please remember that I must see a quilt before I agree to quilting it and before I can give you a final estimate of my services. -Kathleen
Quilt Tips & Techniques
Quilts are sewn with 1/4 inch seams -- not the 5/8 inch seams I use to make clothing. BOTH fabrics should be this same distance from the seam line.
Do not rip the fabric. Measure it on a cutting board, and cut with a rotary blade for best results. (Also ripped fabric unravels easily and leaves long strings of thread to deal with.)
ALWAYS remove the selvedge. Here is why: it does not have the same stretch as the rest of the fabric, so the seams tend to pucker. It is usually white or a contrasting color to the fabric and may show where you don’t want it to show. Also, tiny holes created in the manufacturing process will always show. Finally, the edge of the fabric is seldom straight. Make a new straight edge with your ruler, mat and rotary cutter - removing the selvedge, after you have pre-washed it, and before using it in the quilt
Learn to measure, cut, pin, sew, and press every piece you sew into your quilt.
Avoid taking short cuts; sewing it right pays off in looking great!
If your blocks are not measuring the sizes in your pattern or design, consider the process of your cutting, measuring, pinning, sewing, etc. Measure blocks before you sew them together. Square up a block that is “wonky” before sewing it into the quilt.
Remove excess threads from the back of the top as you go. If you leave them for me to clean up, I will charge an added labor fee.
Measure, cut and sew borders carefully, so they are not wavy.
An “unsquare” quilt top may cause puckers during the quilting process. If you have followed the above guidelines, your top will probably quilt up beautifully. “Square” means the top measures the same length on both sides and it measures the same width both top, middle, and bottom.
When I furnish batting, I generally use an 80/20 (80% cotton and 20% polyester) standard batting. Other options available include Dream Green batting made from 100% recycled plastic bottles (which is surprisingly soft!), bamboo batting, 100% cotton batting and wool batting. Prices will vary with content.
When I furnish the backing, I will use a quality, 100% cotton material, either a high-grade white or cream muslin, or an extra-wide small print in a two-tone complementary color. If you supply the backing, be sure it is larger than the quilt top by at least 8-10 inches wider, and 8-10 inches longer.
Need my assistance? Contact me to schedule a free consultation.
Caring For Your Quilt
Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a new quilt! (or a mended loved old one.) Please use your quilt. It was made with love and professional skills; it was made to be enjoyed.
Quilts often outlive those of us who create them, especially if they are well cared for. Your quilt can be washed carefully yet infrequently. Do not send your quilt to a dry cleaner; the chemicals are not good for these materials. Gently washing in a very mild and safe detergent (Please do not use Tide or other harsh detergents) on a gentle cycle in a large enough machine is okay if your quilt becomes soiled. (I use a very safe and safe for the environment laundry product from Melaleuca, Inc.) It is preferable NOT to put it in an electric dryer! To dry, either hang over folding chairs in front of a fan or put outside on a nice day atop a clean sheet on the lawn.
It is important all layers of fabric and batting are dry before storing.
Store in a clean pillow case when not using. Avoid direct sunlight on your quilt. Refold differently, so as not to develop deep creases. Generally, it is best to keep pets away from your quilts, due to the holes their claws can make in the fabric. These are tips to help you enjoy this special heirloom for many years to come.